Day 9--Most R and R

Takaniny=fabric

Disappointment visualized

Slept in so late I almost missed breakfast, that would have been a shame.  After breakfast, out walking to the fabric shop.  Total disappointment...saleslady had heard that they have textiles made in Poland, but they never have any of them.  Also, she did not know what quilting was, and I had to explain it to her.  The selection of cotton was very limited, and was imported from Italy at zł 90 (that's złoty) per metre works out to about $30/m.  Wow, and I thought $12/yd was pushing it.  Wonder how Polish quilters manage, although our guide Dagmar has a friend that quilts and she gets her material on the internet.  Sorry, no fat quarters for anyone from Poland.

A major intersection

Under the street

Walking anywhere is interesting here.  To cross streets like this you do underground passages.  These are clearly marked, in Polish, so the first time through is experimental, as you may come up on the wrong side (I speak from experience.).  The passages are lined with small shops that sell most anything, but mostly it seems, shoes, stockings, and food.  To cross a regular street, a staring contest with drivers usually works.

Behind the scenes

I like crows.

 If you only walk main streets, or even smaller streets you miss what's behind them.  The apartments all seem to be built around interior squares, which makes sense, as you will then get sun on both sides of the apartment.  These are quite charming, and I only discovered them by chance.

Kebab Dubai, under the street

After going back to the hotel and packing, for we are leaving early early in the morning,  I went out to get some lunch.  There are as many kebab places here as there are McDonalds in the states, so I headed for a kebab shop.  Turns out a kebab is what we would call a gyro, but in a much thinner bread.  Ended up with what I would call a panini burrito with lamb gyro and lots of vegetables and a sour cream sauce.  Very tasty, and somewhat! messy.  I can't believe I ate the whole thing.  Place was called Kebab Dubai, but was run by a Syrian who spoke great English.  Go figure.

Kebab, Warsaw style

Typical apartments, with the highest tagging I've ever seen

As if I cannot get enough walking, I then walked east of the hotel just to see something new.  Some nice leafy streets, with thousands of apartments.  Interesting in that the sidewalks and many of the streets are made of pavers that are set in sand and pounded down.  It makes repair of anything underground easy, as all you have to do is pull up pavers, not jackhammer concrete.  Sidewalks are smooth, except where they are made to look like old cobblestones, then they are, well, like cobblestones.

Pavers set in sand

Back to the hotel to finish packing and an early night, up at 0330 and home at 1220, same day, many hours later.

Day 8--Wandering Warsaw, and a little more food

An interactive listening booth

Chopin's last piano

We are on our own once again, as Surani is off to business meetings. We decided to go to the Chopin Museum, although I am not much of a music person. Patrick, it turns out, is; he played the piano for 12 years! On foot once more, we walked up Nowy Świat to the Muzeum Fryderyka Chopina. All I can say is WOW. We spent three hours touring the exhibits and listening to music, and could have spent the whole day. What an interesting man Chopin was, yet to the end he was unsure that he really had talent, and was fearful people liked him for what he was (rock star of his day) rather than who he was.

Patrick's photogenic meal

After finally emerging from the museum, it was past 2, and way past time to eat. We ended up eating at a restaurant on Nowy Świat called Dawna Smaki. There I had...wait for it....Żurk staropolski gotoway na wędzonce z grzybami, doprawiany tartym chrzanem i majerankiem, podwany z biatą klełbasą oraz jajkiem. So there, I actually did that for three reasons: now you know how a dyslexic much feel, nothing much makes sense; Polish has way too many consonants and not enough vowels (not to mention too many ”z's”), and finally, look at all the special characters I now know how to produce. BTW, this was actually sour rye soup with egg, bacon and kielbasa...very tasty, now that I mostly can taste again (hurray). Patrick had a lovely plate of...wait for it... nope, once is enough, potato pancakes with salmon and caviar. Much more photogenic that my soup.

Too bad I don't teach FIZIX any more

Produce section

We decided against going back to the hotel, then coming back the same way for supper, as we are to meet the cohort at 6:45 in Old Town. We spent the rest of the afternoon walking up to Stare Miasto, the Old Town. It is still amazing to me that most all that we saw was reconstruction after the total destruction of WW2. What attention to detail went into this, much of which was with money supplied by Polish Americans, as the dollar was exceptionally strong after the war. We passed the University of Warsaw, a statue of Nicolaus Copernicus, a great grocery store (remember I said I like to go in grocery stores), and many churches, including the Church of the Holy Cross, where Chopin's heart in inurned.

Church of the Holy Cross

Sausage anyone?

 

 Notice how lovely the sky is?  It was a nice sunny day in Warsaw, a change from the past few grey, rainy days.

Luscious latte

Amazing hot chocolate

We finally got to Old Town and had time to walk through several shops, have coffee (me) and hot chocolate (Patrick). My coffee was good, but Patrick's chocolate was amazing...it was so thick you could eat it with a spoon, but, oh how tasty. 

Look, we found it.

Being distracted by a street show, we totally missed the group going into “Polka,” so we were a few minutes late for dinner, but made it before the main course, which was duck in honey served with pan fried beetroots. (For those of you who like to suffer-Chrupiące udko z kaczki lakierowane miodem podane z zasmażanymi duraczkami)(Actually, I'm just showing off.).

Finally back to the hotel after 12 hours out, I get to sleep in tomorrow while half the group goes off to Auschwitz. I get to go look for material, wish me luck.

Day 7---National Museum and more walking

Jan Matejko, The Battle of Grunwald, 1878

Patrick and I pretty much had the day to ourselves, same for tomorrow.  The cohort had business meetings today (and tomorrow) so we got to wander the streets of Warsaw for ourselves.  Turned out to be a cold, rainy day-- think January in northern California.  Nonetheless, every one is out walking around, umbrellas in hand.  I sure love my L.L.Beans rain jacket, it really works.  We walked to the National Museum of Poland, Muzeum Narodowe w Warszawie.  Not quite what we expected.  I was perhaps expecting more historical artifacts, or archaeological artifacts, or something else.  I got gallery after gallery of painting, the majority seeming to be of either the Madonna and child or the Crucifixion.  This painting shown here is huge, 454 sq ft, and took years to paint.  Wonder how this was hidden from the Nazi theft of art from Poland, all of which has not been found as there are still about 5000 pieces not accounted for.

Surani's paczek tradycyjay

 We had lunch at a restaurant called A. Blikle , which has been in business since 1869.  I finally had pierogi, which resemble large ravioli.  Tasty...I can still taste, even though I currently have a cold.  Patrick left to meet up with the cohort as he had asked special permission to attend one of the business sessions, while I went to the A.Blikle shop and bought Surani paczek tradycyjay, which are like jelly filled doughnuts, but with candied orange peel on top and rose jelly inside.  I then walked back to the hotel, stopping for souveniers along the way, and took a nap.

Traditional Polish design, cut from paper

Shock--Sunshine in Warsaw

At least the outside of the mall is diffenert

                Later, we went over to the mall again ( I think malls worldwide are the same--too many clothes, jewelry and shoes) then walked to Nowy Swait to find a place to eat.  Ended up at Kameralna, a traditional Polish eatery--think down home comfort food.  By now I could no longer taste anything.  I had sour soup, which is served in a bread bowl and has ham and hard boiled egg in it.  Patrick had breaded pork cutlet, potato-gnocchi like things, and cabbage, slightly sweet and sour.  I could taste none of it.  Surani had a potato pancake which was more like a crepe.  Patrick and Surani enjoyed their meals, and I'm sure I would have had I the ability to taste.

Patrick's yummy supper

My sour soup

Day 6--Sightseeing in Warszawa

Chinese walk in park

Surani and Dagmar with Chopin statue

Very nice buffet at the Polonia Palace for breakfast, and then off on a sightseeing tour by bus and foot.  First stop was a wonderful park name Park Lazienkowski with a palace in the middle of a lake.  Unfortunately closed for renovation.  Turns out Chopin is a big deal in Warsaw, being Polish.  Statue of him in park, museum, and also piano compition held here.  We walked in the park and I saw my first hazelnut hull.  Look it up, it's really interesting.

Vista from "Palace on the Water"

Beautiful, even with no tail

Old Town, all a reproduction

What Old Town looked like ca 1947

Inside Palace, Father Time

We then drove to the beginning of Old Town, Stare Miasto.  Visited the King's Palace which was completely leveled in World War 2.  The whole thing was rebuilt to its exact look before--think a historically accurate Disneyland.  It is the only reproduction that is a World Heritage site.  I took lots of pictures of inlaid floors for quilting ideas.  After this we walked through Old Town, also completely restored from the ground up and then ate at a restaurant there called Krokodyl.

Dijon Chicken

 Had a very nice lunch of soup (no organ meat), chicken breast with Dijon sauce, pureed potatoes, and finally a very tasty Cinnamon Apple pie.

Apple Cinnamon Pie with Meringue

Overlook Wisla River

Barbican and city wall

After lunch we walked some more, then ended up leaving the Old Town through the barbican and city walls of brick.  Walked through a leafy area in New Town to look at the October 1944 Warsaw Uprising memorial, and finally ended the day at the memorial to the Ghetto of Warsaw where so many Jews were taken to Triblinka and gassed.  At the start of the war there were approximately 400,000 Jews in Warsaw, and it is estimated that 300,000 were exterminated.  The numbers are appalling.  I will not go on a day trip to Auschwitz.  I saw the Museum of Tolerance in Los Angeles and that is enough for me.

Memorial October 1944 Uprising

We finally got back to the hotel, where I took a nap, then Patrick, Surani and I ate at a restaurant called Papaya which had "Pan-Asian" but was mostly Thai.  Very classy.  Long trek home and thus to bed.

Day 5--ZGB to WAW

View out the window in the rain

Good bye Croatia

Today was a travel day, so goodbye to Croatia in a thunder and lightning storm, and hello to Frankfurt Airport, again. 

Germany from the air

And again, a trek through the airport, thru security, customs, and immigration, and to our gate area. Not as long as before, and we were prepared for what we had to do...which didn't make it any more fun.

Classy, but I like Croatia better.

Arrived in Warsaw in the rain and dark. Hopefully we will be reduced to only clouds tomorrow, but to make up for it, the hotel is classier than Zagreb, but to make up for classier surroundings we have to pay for internet in our rooms, although the lobby has free internet.

Not impressive view out my window

Palace of Science and Culture

I went out for dinner with Surani, Patrick, and Marissa. We ate at a “trattoria” named Casa Mia which had great pizza. Still raining, so home again, home again, this time Polonia Palace.

Marissa and Casa Mia special

Surani and the Classico

Day 4--Walking Zagreb

Another great church spire

Notice the sun dial on right

Finally, a day with no bus.  Surani left on
business visits, which Patrick and I can
not go on, so we are on our own. 
We walked up to the central square, then
through Old Town.  Some of the buildings
are three or more centuries old, and look it.

Potatoes, cabbage, onions, grapes, figs, and so much more

Repair on right

 After exploring Dolac Market, a really wonderful farmer's market (and buying souvenirs) we wandered over to the Zagreb Cathedral. 

I think applique, right?

First built in the 11th century, it was rebuilt following an earthquake in 1880.  It has wonderful twin spires and a very lofty interior.  I took lots of pictures of the floor tiles as possible quilt designs.  We then trekked to the east of the central square to find a fabric shop that our tour guide Irvana had located.   (The day is now hot.)  Alas, no cotton fabric, so no quilting material from Croatia :-(

Patrick taking pictures for Surani

Walking back to the center, we were now in search of the "Olive Museum," which we had seen signboards for, but had been unable to find.  After another long walk we did find it, but were disappointed. Not quite what we had imagined, but interesting.  Perhaps Surani will visit it tomorrow and find it better than we did.

Now, for lunch.  It had been recommended that we try a grilled meat (lamb) called cevapcici.  Walking down the street in Old Town trying to find it, I was struck by how the cafes and restaurants seem to advertise what kind of beer they offer, but not what kind of food.  Finally found a restaurant called  Medvedgrad that offered it.  Well worth the recommendation, thanks, Boris and Steph.  Very nicely grilled minced lamb with french fries and a seasonal salad (lots of cukes and tomato).  The red sauce is called blagi, and is ground up paprika peppers (not hot) eggplant, tomato and garlic.  Tasty.

Milk, in bottles

Back to the hotel via a food store call Konzum (a great name for a food store).  It is always interesting going into food stores away from home to see what things are offered, both the same and different.  Bought a couple of edible gifts for home, and thus, finally, back to the hotel, where I immediately took a nap.



 

Surani's shrimp

For dinner we walked the streets and finally decided on Ribice which is a seafood restaurant.  After starters of salad, bruschetta and fried olives, we had shrimp (Surani), Queenfish (Patrick) and grilled flounder (Me).  Very tasty, even if hard to eat.  Hands came into play, as Surani's shrimp were whole, heads and all, and my flounder also were whole, heads and all.  Patrick had it easy, the waiter filleted his fish for him.  For dessert we walked to Oranz and had a torte which was mostly angelfood cake and cream.  Yummmmmm.  On to Poland tomorrow.

Patrick's Queenfish

 

My flounder, grilled

What was left

Yummmy