Morocco 2019 Day 12

Horse guard

Road trip to Rabat, the capital of Morocco, was on tap today.  The journey was about 90 minutes on another wonderful toll road.  Not much to see in the way of agriculture except eucalyptus trees, mostly grown for firewood.

Rabat is on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean, as is Casablanca.  Weather was very pleasant, cool with a little sea breeze blowing.  Nice standing in the sun. 

Imagine how big this would have been.

Our first stop was at the Unfinished Mosque of Hassan, which has been incomplete since 1195.  What is left, declared a World Heritage Site, is the minaret, half the size intended, columns taken from Roman ruins that were to be pillars of the Mosque, and some wall sections.  Adjoining this is the Mausoleum of Mohammad V, the grandfather of the current king.

Section of original wall

Looking down at tomb

Dome of the Mausoleum

Love the mosaic tile work

 

 

 

Kasbah of the Udayas

Our second stop was at the Kasbah of the Udayas, built in the 12th century.  It is also a World Heritage Site.  A kasbah is a fort, of which there are many, and the Udayas  were a tribe that used the fort as their home.  In beautiful shape, but unfortunately for us (or maybe fortunately) the shops were closed as it is Friday, the Islamic Sunday.

Inside the Kasbah

Kids playing football

Pastries at the Moorish Cafe

Looking at the Bou Regreg
from the Moorish Cafe
Inside Udayas Kasbah

Cats everywhere in the Kasbah

Third stop was a restaurant for lunch.  We crossed the river Bou Regreg to the city opposite Rabat, Salé.  The restaurant was on the waterfront with a nice view across to the Minaret and Mausoleum.  Wonderful salad, followed by fish.  Two pieces of sole, two whole (and I do mean whole, heads and all) whiting, some whole shrimp and octopus rings.  I'm still full and it's six hours later.

Fish dinner, absolutely delicious

Back to Casablanca via the Cornice of Rabat with beautiful Atlantic Ocean scenes along the way.  Tanis and I went to the 26th floor restaurant for the view and coffee, then down to the room to pack and juggle stuff so we aren't overweight.


 My adventure is coming to an end.  Leaving tomorrow for NYC, overnight there, and then home to Santa Rosa!  We'll see what adventure comes next.

Morocco 2019 Day 11

City tour today.  

First place to visit was the Hassan II Mosque. It is the largest mosque in Africa, and the 5th largest in the world. Its minaret is the world's tallest at 689 ft.  Photos have no way of showing the immensity of the space inside.  It can hold 25,000 worshipers inside, with another 80,000 outside.  It's huge!  Notre Dame or St. Peter's Basilica could fit inside.  Every surface is carved or tiled...wonderful design ideas everywhere.  Only finished in 1993, it is built partially over the ocean.
 








 










 

The end of this hall is about
600 feet away.

 











 
 

"Come with me to the kasbah."

Leaving the Mosque behind, we drove along the Corniche, the oceanside walk with many restaurants, and then into Casablanca itself.  We ended up in the area called Harbous, which is home to a market area our guide called the kasbah of Casablanca.  Much quieter than the usual souk, it was interesting walking around without having to constantly be jumping out of the way of motorcycles and horse carts.

Olives!!!

and carpets

 Leaving Harbous, we drove by the United Nations Square. Very vibrant, filled with tourists, locals, hawkers and about a million pigeons.

Check out the pigeons

Back at the Sofitel we ate on the 24th floor which has a wonderful view of the city.  Food was good too.  Going out later with a several others on the tour, we crossed the street (a feat in itself, no crosswalks, timing necessary to miss the traffic) to the souk area near the hotel.  An hour of looking and saying "Sorry, just looking." we came back to the hotel.

Final farewell dinner tonight.  Jim West is leaving tomorrow, so rather than tomorrow night we had the dinner tonight.  Rabat tomorrow.


I've decided that the better of the two cities is Marrakesh.  Casablanca just too big, and the vibe in Marrakesh is better, although the souk is messier.

Morocco 2019 Day 10

Road to Casablanca

Up early for the drive to Casablanca.  I find it strange that the sun does not rise until 8.  I think this is the latest I've ever seen a sunrise.  Must be a weird time zone issue.  We left before sunrise in any case.  

The road from Marrakesh is a very nice four-lane highway.  Toll road, but what the heck.  Leaving the Marrakesh area it felt like we were in Nevada, with cactus farms as a difference along the way.  Scenery turned greener the longer we were on the road.  Lots of wheat, olive groves and occasional eucalyptus farms (for firewood). The road was pretty much downhill, as Marrakesh is at 1500 feet, while Casablanca is at sea level.  Once in the Casablanca area the traffic started.  Controlled but chaotic, horns like in India, in fact, more horns than in Marrakesh.  Totally different vibe to this place.  Of course, its a city with a population of 3 1/2 million (contrasting with Marrakesh at about 1 milllion), so more traffic is expected. Buildings are white, rather than the terra cotta prevalent in Marrakesh.
 
We had lunch at Rick's Cafe of Casablanca fame.  I've never seen the movie, but I guess I'll have to watch it now.  Lunch, in any case, was very nice.

Inside Rick's Cafe

Sofitel

Next stop was our hotel, Sofitel Casablanca Tour Blanche, a huge 24 story building.  We're on the eighth floor, which in the USA would be the ninth (because they start counting at 0, as the ground floor, for those inquiring minds) with a view of the harbor.  Once we were in, we staying in, although I did go for a short walk (it's darn cold here too), the principle attraction of which was a snail stall, where I could have eaten my first snail...not.

Interesting building next to Rick’s.
Check out the underwear hanging in the window.

 

Morocco 2019 Day 9

Tile work at the entrance to the Ensemble

Moroccan pottery

A miracle, a free day.  Was offered the option of going to a dye works and an antique shop area and declined both.  Instead, after breakfast I took a taxi from the hotel to the Ensemble Artisinal Marrakech where literally all handicrafts of offered.  In fact, this is the location of the carpet weaving and tile from a couple of days ago.  There I finally bought the pottery I wanted, as well as some other souvenirs.  After taking the taxi back to the hotel I walked down the street in front of the hotel.  Lots of places offering little knick knacks.  Now I'm sure my suitcase is overweight!

Stonework at the Ensemble

Had a farewell dinner, for some people are not going on the Casablanca with us.  Now to pack up for an 8 o'clock bus ride to Casablanca.

Street decoration, Moroccan flag

 

Morocco 2019 Day 8

High Atlas with village on a hill

Cooking school day, hurray.  I love taking cooking classes in different countries.  Long drive south of Marrakesh to a village in the foothills of the High Atlas mountains.  Unlikely place for a cooking school, but apparently this school grows all its produce organically in the area.  The venue is lovely, in a garden, but since everything is outside it is COLD.  I wore my puffy jacket and it was barely enough.

Part of team B

Cumin, cinnamon, ras el hanout,
salt, pepper, paprika, ginger,
turmeric, garlic, coriander, parsley
preserved lemons

We were introduced to the spices and other ingredients used in Moroccan cooking by Chef Josef.  Divided up into teams, we proceeded with chopping, slicing and dicing.  We made Lemon Chicken with olives, Lamb with apricots and prunes, and Vegetables.  We were shown how to make couscous properly, then diced carrots and beetroot for salad.  All of the cooking was done in tagines except for the couscous, which is steamed.  After walking around the gardens we sat down to hors d'oeuvres of Arab bread with argan oil, honey, and peanut sauce, and of course, mint tea.  We then went to a tent to eat the fruits of our labor.  What a wonderful meal.  Enjoyed it immensely.

Tagines and steamer for couscous

Lamb, left, chicken right

Putting vegetables together

Plated

Returning to the city: Marrakesh does have an air quality issue which can clearly be seen from the outside.  Lots of car exhaust.

Beginning of my memory quilt

Back to the hotel, where we had a class with Pam Holland.  Memory quilts was the topic, and we all started with a small square of fabric to embellish with objects or designs that remind us of our time in Morocco.

Tanis is back.  Large leg brace to keep her leg somewhat immobile, she says she is in no pain whatsoever.  Great to have her back.

 Interesting sight in the country.  Mini-pyramid which turn out to be hay storage.  In the background you can see the smoggy haze that is Marrakesh.












A former student and best friend of Rob lives and works in Marrakesh.  Muhammad Ya'qub Gledhill invited me to his home for a home-cooked Moroccan meal.  It was really great to see him after many years and to meet his wife and children.  He is head of the English Department at a local international school, and his wife also teaches--she is also a great cook.

Beef tagine, salad, and a savory seasoning, plus Arab bread.

Ya'qub and his wife, Safia

Morocco 2019 Day 7

The wall of the Medina---remember 17 km?  Holes are for scaffolding.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 Got this straight, now it's Sunday.  Bad news first.  Tanis was bent over to tie her shoe when her hip popped out of joint.  Total agony, and she was loaded into an ambulance to go to a clinic to put it back where it belonged.
 
This morning we were treated to two classes with a difference.  The first class, embroidery, was held in a private home in the Medina close to the Souk.  There we were taught the Fez type embroidery, which is the same on both sides.  I enjoyed the session very much, but others didn't have such a good time learning, or attempting to learn, the stitch.

Food arriving, me still working.

After this class, and before the next, we were treated to a tea, and what a tea it was.  Fresh breads of several types made by the women themselves, sweet cakes and the omnipresent mint tea.  Really delicious and such fun.  Some of the women spoke some English, and there were a couple of teenagers there who were happy to practice their language skills on us.

Looks like parantas in background
Taste like them, too

A gaggle of crafters

My bracelets

Second class was a making a small beaded bracelet, and was held in a building used by Association/Coopérative Al Kawtar, which is an organization to help women with disabilities.  Making the bracelets is one of their sources of income.  Enjoyed this class too, and may make more to give away at Christmas. 





Our guide Moncef took us into the Souk to a caftan shop.  I don't think I could ever find it again and don't particularly want to.  Prices were very high, and not marked on the garments, so you had to ask.  I'm sure there was a different prices for the local.  Loved a wool coat there, but MAD6000 is a little rich for me---think $600.

Back to the hotel, and since I did not sign up for the Yves Saint Laurent Museum visit, the rest of the afternoon was free.  Walked down the street to a little restaurant and had a chicken/mushroom panini with a pineapple/ginger smoothie.  Very tasty, with leftovers.

Vegetables

  After lunch I went to the SuperMarché (Super Market) in the mall behind the hotel.  Always interesting looking at foods in other places.  Many different things here, some familiar, like Lay's potato chips, but the vast majority not.  Here you select your fruits/vegetables, put them in a brown bag, and take them to be weighed and priced before checking out.  Fresh fish offered, as well as unknown cuts of meat.

Couscous anyone?

Back to the hotel, missing Tanis, as she spent the night at the clinic---no one to talk to.

Sights in the Souk

Sunset from our hotel room